It’s taken me a while to write about this magical pot of goodness, not sure why as I use it on everything most days – I guess it has become such a staple ingredient that I have forgotten how special it is….
Modena – a pretty city with ancient buildings, lovely little squares and interesting shops, but most importantly, the home of Aceto Balsamico. I hate vinegar, have no sign of it in my kitchen anywhere, I only buy vinegar if I need to de-scale my kettle, but Balsamico – well for some reason, that’s a different story – I absolutely love it! This was handy of course, as I had an afternoon of aceto balsamico tasting to look forward to!
The local tourist board organised a trip to a balsamic house for me just on the outskirts of town. I gave the address to the taxi driver and he looked a bit lost and said he would take me there, but being born and bred in Modena, he had never heard of the house he was taking me to and if was I sure it was the right address….after reassuring him that I would be happy to take the risk anyhow, as I was pretty sure the tourist board wouldn’t lie to me, we ventured off to find this mystery balsamic production ‘factory’. As we got there, it was a house, a pretty house, in the middle of not much, with a gate and a few trees surrounding it…this was fun!!!
I rang the buzzer and was let in and welcomed by a vibrant perfume of crushed grapes so rugged and fragrant that I just took a long deep breath! The acetaia is owned by Giovanna and Giorgio, two wonderful people from Modena who live and breathe balsamic vinegar. Giovanna led me to the top of the house, which was where the balsamic was produced. As you can imagine, the house had a natural perfume of balsamic throughout, which funnily enough was not uncomfortable to the nose or nauseous as you would think, but instead pleasant and tasteful.
The production of Balsamic vinegar, as Giovanna explained, is a very slow affair. To explain it simply, the process is similar to that of sherry where different barrels are used to make one bottle. Every year, with a particular transferring technique, the smallest barrel of the lot produces some balsamic vinegar, while the liquid left is mixed with that of the bigger barrel.
The difference from normal vinegar, which comes from wine or cider etc, is that the balsamic is made directly from the grape’s juice in its natural virgin form. The grapes used are local and have been grown in the area for centuries, usually Lambrusco or Trebbiano grapes. These grapes are cooked in pots on an open flame and then placed in barrels made from precious woods such as rose or oak, where extremely complex natural fermentation and oxidation processes occur. The making of balsamic is rather quiet, a little discreet let’s say, and with the technique of pouring vinegars from one barrel to the next and the many years of ageing, the intelligent enzyme conversions manage to reach a surprising balance of aroma and flavour.
Giovanna proceeded to explain that there are incredibly strict rules and regulations in order to adhere to the Consortium for Aceto Balsamico di Modena. To respect tradition, the balsamic houses are visited frequently by the consortium to ensure that the vinegar is being aged properly and that nothing is added to the process. They check that what is in the barrels is of good quality and that nothing has been added to the process.
Only two types of Balsamic vinegars are available – those of 12 years (up to 25years) and those of 25 years +, which are simply labelled on the bottle, as very old – ‘Extra Vecchio’. I have often seen bottles with ’15 year old and 17 year old aceto balsamico’, for example, but this means absolutely nothing and proves that it is not real Aceto Balsamico approved by the consortium which is there to provide top quality products.
The consortium ensures that all balsamic, before it is sold, has aged to a minimum of 12 years in barrells. The balsamic houses are also put through taste tests which analyse the quality of the vinegar and the organic structure of the product. With all this taken in consideration, it is at the Consortium’s discretion whether the balsamic makes it through as a DOP product or not. If the balsamic does not pass the test, then the vinegar is replaced in barrells for further refinement.
If you are lucky enough to receive the correct amount of points, the balsamic is bottled, by the Consortium, in the presence of the aceto balsamico maker in the designated 100ml exclusive aceto balsamico bottle, chosen by the consortium. This is the only bottle shape which a DOP aceto balsamico, certified by the consortium, can be sold in. In other words, if you are told that a vinegar is balsamic, but it is sold in a long skinny bottle or a rounded short bottle, this means the vinegar has not been certified by the consortium and therefore has not gone through strict quality control tests, ensuring a high quality product.
Talking to Giovanna, I found out that this is a real problem in Modena. I asked her why I had seen so many pretty bottles of all shapes and sizes being sold in one of the local shops if this meant that basically, they were not proper aceto balsamico, and she smiled weakly and told me that unfortunately money is a priority for everyone and that she was truly sad her city did not do more to protect hard workers like her to ensure they were protected from these shops who sold products which are not aceto balsamico di Modena.
Giovanna is so passionate about her job, it’s not a job, as she quite righly corrects me, but a tradition that she hopes her daughter Carlotta will continue with, one day. She informs me that when the first daughter is born, usually and in her case, a barrell is dedicated to her and after years of ageing, 25 in her case, a unique aceto balsamico is produced in honour of the daughter.
I think I have exhausted her with my questions, but then again, Giovanna is so passionate and bubbly that I think she has enjoyed talking about it as much as I have loved to listen, so we head for a little room in the attic where she has layed out different balsamics for me to taste.
Here goes:
The ‘Capsula Bianca’ DOP which has been aged for more than 12 years (but as I mentioned earlier, less than 25 years – the exact amount is not detailed on the bottle as this is not relevant according to the Consortium). This balsamic has been aged in different barrels of different woods, including chestnut, mulberry and ash, and has a brown clear colour with copious amounts of flavours and aromas as well as the correct level of acidity, a little more noticeable than in the balsamics aged for more than 25 years. I am informed this balsamic is ideal with carpaccio or even crustacean dishes as well as eggs and steamed vegetables. The Capsula Bianca is also available only aged in cherry tree wood or juniper, giving, as you can imaging, intense aromas of the different woods.
The ‘Capsula Oro’ DOP has been aged for over 25 years, in ancient barrells passed down through the family over many years. These old barrells give the balsamic a personality and exclusive taste which is manifestated through its colour – a rich dark choclate brown and it’s distinctively sweet, rather than acidic taste. This aged balsamic is heaven on cheeses, fish dishes, fruit salads – strawberries in particular and on top of ice creams. Again, this balsamic has been aged in different wood barrels, however Giovanna has also got ‘extra vecchio’ balsamics aged in only juniper of cherry woods.
I have fallen in love with this house, this smell, this little bubble of a world, in the 2 hours I have spoken to this informative, creative, intelligent lady. She is the epitome of cool, with a sense of dignity and ability to make things succeed that I envy her for. I stock up on my balsamic, which I know I will regret I haven’t bought more of, but I leave happy, really content with myself, that I have leanrt more than I could imagine I ever would in two hours.
If you are in Modena, then please, take this gastronomical unique experience and head to:
Via S.Cabassi, 67 – Modena
Telefono / fax 059.333015
Mobile 338.6575552
Email: info@acetaiadigiorgio.it
and if the taxi driver seems unsure, well i’ll definitely be smiling, as it means that they have remained a small, tight-knit family business, who do this through passion and tradition rather than expand into a production plant – which I am sure they would never ever do in a million squillion years!